Slowly Down the Ganges

Eric Newby and his wife Wanda embark on a 1,200-mile journey down India's Ganges River in 1963. Starting in the Himalayan foothills and continuing to the Bay of Bengal, they travel by boat, on foot, and through various modes of local transport. The narrative chronicles their encounters with religious pilgrims, local officials, fellow travelers, and residents of the countless villages and cities along the sacred river. Newby documents the physical and cultural landscape of India during this period, including religious practices, architecture, and daily life along the Ganges. Through mishaps, logistical challenges, and unexpected detours, Newby maintains his characteristic self-deprecating humor and keen eye for detail. His observations move between historical context and present-day experiences as he and Wanda navigate both the river itself and the complexities of Indian bureaucracy. The book stands as both a travel narrative and a meditation on the nature of pilgrimage, exploring how sacred and secular experiences intersect along one of the world's most significant waterways.

Readers describe this as a slow-paced travelogue that captures both the frustrations and charms of river travel in India. Many note Newby's dry British humor and self-deprecating style when recounting mishaps and cultural misunderstandings. Positives: - Detailed observations of daily life along the Ganges - Historical and cultural context woven throughout - Honest portrayal of travel difficulties - Vivid descriptions of locations and characters Negatives: - Pace drags in middle sections - Some find Newby's tone occasionally patronizing - Too much focus on boat problems/logistics - Several readers note the dated colonial perspective Ratings: Goodreads: 3.9/5 (476 ratings) Amazon: 4.1/5 (89 ratings) Notable review: "Newby captures both the sacred and profane nature of the Ganges. His misadventures make you laugh while his reverence for the river makes you think." - Goodreads reviewer Common sentiment: The book rewards patient readers but requires tolerance for detailed tangents and slow narrative development.

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🚣 Eric Newby and his wife Wanda attempted to travel the entire 1,200-mile length of the Ganges, though their boat journey ended prematurely at Benares due to water levels being too low. 🗺️ The book was published in 1966, based on Newby's journey in 1963—a time when traditional life along the Ganges was beginning to encounter rapid modernization. 🌟 While planning the trip, Newby received advice from the famous explorer Sir Edmund Hillary, who suggested using special flat-bottomed boats for the journey. 🏰 The narrative includes detailed descriptions of historical sites that no longer exist in their original form today, making the book an important historical record of mid-20th century India. 📚 During his journey, Newby carried a copy of Rudyard Kipling's "Kim" and frequently referenced it while traveling through locations mentioned in that classic novel.