The United States of Arugula

The United States of Arugula traces the evolution of American food culture from the 1950s through the early 2000s. The book chronicles the personalities, cultural shifts, and innovations that transformed American attitudes toward food and cooking. Author David Kamp examines key figures like James Beard, Julia Child, and Alice Waters who shaped the nation's culinary landscape. Their stories intersect with broader movements in American society, from counterculture to entrepreneurship to the rise of food media. The narrative follows parallel developments in restaurants, home cooking, food television, and the emergence of celebrity chefs. Kamp documents how ingredients and techniques once considered exotic became mainstream elements of American cuisine. The book presents food culture as a lens for understanding shifts in American values, exploring themes of class, authenticity, and national identity through changing relationships with food and cooking.

Readers appreciate the detailed research and engaging storytelling about America's food revolution. They highlight Kamp's ability to weave together the rise of food culture through profiles of influential figures like James Beard, Julia Child, and Alice Waters. Common criticisms focus on the book's dense information and name-dropping, which some found overwhelming. Several readers noted it reads more like a textbook at times. One Amazon reviewer wrote: "Too many characters introduced too quickly made it hard to follow." Readers found value in learning how American cuisine evolved but wanted more depth on regional food movements outside New York and California. A Goodreads reviewer noted: "The Midwest and South feel largely ignored." Ratings: Goodreads: 3.8/5 (2,800+ ratings) Amazon: 4.1/5 (120+ ratings) LibraryThing: 3.7/5 (250+ ratings) The book resonates most with readers already interested in food history and culinary culture rather than casual food enthusiasts.

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🌿 While researching the book, David Kamp discovered that Julia Child had initially planned to title "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" as "Le Grand Livre de Cuisine Française en Anglais." 🍽️ The term "arugula" became a symbol of American food elitism in the 1980s, particularly after presidential candidate John Kerry was mocked for ordering it on his cheesesteak in Philadelphia. 📚 The book reveals that James Beard, often called "The Dean of American Cookery," was fired from his job at an advertising agency in 1937 for being gay – a setback that unexpectedly launched his food career. 🌟 Before becoming a food writer, author David Kamp worked as a writer and editor at GQ and Vanity Fair, covering entertainment and pop culture. 🍳 The book documents how Craig Claiborne revolutionized restaurant criticism by establishing the now-standard practice of visiting restaurants anonymously and paying for meals, rather than accepting free meals as was common practice.