📖 Overview
Remembrance of Things Paris collects six decades of food writing from Gourmet magazine, chronicling Paris's culinary evolution from post-WWII through the early 2000s. The essays capture both grand establishments and humble bistros through the perspectives of acclaimed writers and critics who lived in or frequently visited the City of Light.
The collection follows major shifts in Parisian gastronomy, from the preservation of classical French cooking to the rise of nouvelle cuisine and modern innovations. Writers document their discoveries of neighborhood restaurants, interactions with renowned chefs, and experiences shopping at local markets and specialty food shops.
Personal narratives intertwine with detailed observations about changing menus, cooking techniques, and dining customs in the French capital. The book includes practical guidance for travelers seeking authentic dining experiences, while maintaining its focus on storytelling and cultural commentary.
The compilation ultimately reveals how food serves as a lens for examining broader cultural transformation, as Paris evolves from a post-war city determined to maintain its culinary heritage into a modern metropolis balancing tradition with innovation.
👀 Reviews
Readers describe this collection as a culinary time capsule of Paris from 1940-2000, though many note it focuses heavily on the 1950s-60s period.
Readers appreciated:
- Historical food writing that captures bygone Parisian restaurants and dining culture
- Joseph Wechsberg's essays about post-WWII Paris
- Details about traditional French cooking techniques
- Rich descriptions of meals at famous restaurants
Common criticisms:
- Content feels dated and references many closed restaurants
- Writing style can be pretentious and name-dropping
- Too much focus on luxury/high-end dining experiences
- Some essays are stronger than others, creating an uneven collection
Ratings:
Goodreads: 3.8/5 (89 ratings)
Amazon: 4.4/5 (31 ratings)
One reader noted: "More of a historical document than a current guide, but fascinating for serious food lovers." Another commented: "The writing transports you to another era of French gastronomy, though not all pieces resonate equally."
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The Sweet Life in Paris by David Lebovitz A pastry chef's relocation to Paris unfolds through stories of food traditions, market discoveries, and cultural observations of the French culinary world.
Between Meals: An Appetite for Paris by A.J. Liebling A journalist's memoir captures Paris's restaurant culture and gastronomic character from the 1920s through the 1950s.
My Life in France by Julia Child Child's transformation from American diplomat's wife to culinary icon takes place through her experiences with French food, cooking school, and market exploration in post-war Paris.
Long Ago in France by M.F.K. Fisher Fisher's experiences in Dijon during the 1920s present a portrait of French provincial life through its markets, cafes, and food customs.
🤔 Interesting facts
🗼 Ruth Reichl served as Editor-in-Chief of Gourmet Magazine for 10 years, transforming it from a traditional cooking magazine into a cutting-edge publication that explored food culture and politics.
🍷 The book compiles 40 years of the best Paris-focused articles and recipes from Gourmet Magazine, offering a time capsule of French cuisine from the 1940s through the 2000s.
🍳 Julia Child, who later became a famous chef and author, began her culinary journey in Paris and wrote several pieces for Gourmet Magazine that are featured in this collection.
🥖 The book captures the evolution of Parisian food culture, from the post-war era when traditional bistros dominated to the rise of nouvelle cuisine in the 1970s.
🇫🇷 During the period covered in the book, Paris transformed from a city where it was nearly impossible to get a bad meal to one where tourists needed careful guidance to avoid tourist traps—a change documented through the magazine's evolved restaurant recommendations.