The Old Patagonian Express

The Old Patagonian Express chronicles Paul Theroux's ambitious train journey from Boston to Patagonia in 1979. Theroux's 12,000-mile route takes him through the American Midwest, Mexico, Central America, and down the western coast of South America. The narrative captures encounters with local residents, fellow travelers, and notable figures including Jorge Luis Borges. Through railways both modern and antiquated, Theroux observes the changing landscapes, cultural transitions, and social conditions of each region he passes through. Each segment presents unique challenges - from bureaucratic hurdles at border crossings to mechanical delays and altitude sickness in the Andes. The transportation itself becomes a lens for examining the contrasts between North and South America, wealth and poverty, urban and rural life. The book stands as both a practical chronicle of train travel in the Americas and a meditation on the nature of boundaries, movement, and human connection across vast distances. Through careful observation rather than judgment, Theroux documents a world in transition while testing the limits of what it means to truly traverse a continent.

Readers describe this as a cynical and sometimes grumpy travelogue, with Theroux maintaining a critical distance from both his fellow travelers and the places he visits. Many note his sharp observations and wit, particularly in describing train travel's mundane details and peculiar characters. Liked: - Detailed descriptions of train travel logistics - Literary references and encounters with authors - Cultural insights about Latin America in the 1970s Disliked: - Theroux's negative attitude and complaints - Dismissive tone toward locals - Focus on traveler discomforts rather than destinations - "Self-important" writing style One reader notes: "He seems determined to find fault everywhere he goes." Another writes: "His crankiness becomes almost endearing by the end." Ratings: Goodreads: 3.9/5 (3,800+ ratings) Amazon: 4.3/5 (180+ ratings) LibraryThing: 3.8/5 (600+ ratings) Common descriptors in reviews: "curmudgeonly," "observant," "detailed," "pessimistic"

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🚂 The journey described in the book took over two and a half months to complete, spanning approximately 7,000 miles and passing through twelve countries. 📚 While in Argentina, Theroux met with celebrated author Jorge Luis Borges, and their conversation about literature and philosophy became a significant highlight of the book. 🗺️ The book's title comes from the narrow-gauge railway in southern Argentina, La Trochita, nicknamed "The Old Patagonian Express," which was one of the last functioning steam railways in South America at the time. ✍️ Paul Theroux pioneered a new style of travel writing with this book, focusing on the journey itself rather than just the destinations, and inspiring a generation of travel writers to follow suit. 🌎 The book was published in 1979 and marked Theroux's first major journey through the Americas, following his acclaimed travel writing about Asia in "The Great Railway Bazaar" (1975).